First, i'm doing this on my phone so typos may be nearly unbearable. But there's nowhere to plug in my tablet except above the lab and I am not going to stand up for this.
Yesterday: Crater Lake is exactly what I expected. Except the signs -- clearly written by a young person. "Caution, falling may lead to injury or death." No mention of broken hips.
At Crater, the park was full so I wound up on Forest Service property and camped in a warming hut. Comfy.
Next destination: Great Basin NP at Baker, Nevada. Let me just say this, if Cleveland is the mistake by the lake, Northern Nevada is just a mistakem
I stopped at Denio Junction for a cold Gatorade I wasn't expecting much,  so I wasn't surprised. One commercial property, cafe/bar/motel. Luke was sitting at a bar table, outside, in the shade of what had been the awning for a gas station. There was one stool and he had it; from his perch he was nursing a glass of something with lime.
I went in for a Gatorade purchased from the register at the bar. The sign said it was air conditioned, I think it was just dark. I took my drink back outside.
I joined Luke, but I stood.
Across the road two men were preparing to haul away a small building. Denio will be smaller tomorrow, noted this ain't Denio, Luke said this is Denio Junction. Denios bigger
how big?
26 or 28, probably.
Hundred?
No. People. Including me, I live there.
How many in Denio Junction, I asked?
Well, let's see. Two live back there (he pointed to the back of the cafe/bar), one hobo hangs out over there (he pointed to the old motel) and one old guy lives across the road.
Gasoline available?
We ain't had gas here in 4 years.
I headed to Winnemucca, 90 miles away but there's gasoline there.

South of Winnemucca, headed toward Hello and Ely, the hills and intoxicating smell of sage are reminiscent of Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado.
Lots of warnings about deer (and elk and burros and horses and cows) in Nevada. One even cautions: Major Deer Crossing Ahead.
FWIW, must are more disciplined than deer and elk, apparently. Deer and elk crossings can extend miles. In Idaho, I saw two signs that said Moose Crossing Next 400 Yards. They even paint a warning on the asphalt. Someone must do a good job parenting the moose.
Lots of riding today, hundreds of miles of two lane roads. From a $39 motel (yes, Skipper. $39. I'm no coward.) To Great Basin No, to Capitol Reef NP, to Arches NP to Cortez where I'm hunkered down, hiding from thunder, lightning and rain like a cow... you know. I don't know many miles that is, but with brutal crosswinds, desert heat and wildlife all over the highways, it's a bunch.
I'm not alone in this CycoStampede Rally folly... 4 of us were at Capitol Reef at the same time. I have no idea where the others went.
The Ranger at Great Basin this morning said the first request for a cancellation stamp was from one of us -- on his way back from Skagway. Alaska.

From Kamiah ID to Puyallup WA by way of Lewiston, Spokane, Grand Coulee, North NP, Denton WA.

Washington drivers are dawdlers.
The Clearwater River valley/Canyon is beautiful, with linked turns from Kamiah to Joseph. It's like a long slalom course with shade and a river nearby.
I dig the Spiral Highway from Lewiston to the top of Lewiston Hill. Overlooks the Snake River with Idaho to the left and Washington to the right.
Pretty much all the apples in the world are hanging on trees on the Okanogon Valley. But I wouldn't give a fig for the country from Spokane to that first apple tree. And, lordy, Grand Coulee is desolate.
North Cascades NP cannot be adequately described. Sorry, Im not that good with words.
The only good thing about following Washington drivers is the fuel consumption. I got 48 mpg on two tanks.

BIG day today. Because I was able to claim Devil's Tower points yesterday (skillful riding) I was able to jump-,start today's route. Net result, I got Lolo Pass points today instead of tomorrow morning. And I finished the day about an hour from tomorrow's opener at Joseph, Idaho.
759 miles and a willingness to forego food...
BTW, if my guardian angel stops by tomorrow, says I have one more day to ride, there's an excellent chance I'd ride Lolo Canyon. 120 miles of uninterrupted curves chasing the Lochso River. My, my, my. And virtually no civilization... 90 miles between fuel, no cell service, huge Red Cedars.
Observation:
In Drummond Montana, there's a Used COW Lot. Limited warranty, I'm guessing.
Makes me want to move there -- Sweet Grass County.
Missoula traffic is atrocious, but the setting and the river are awesome.